Headlight Not Working? Bulb, Wiring or the Headlight Itself
A headlight not working usually comes down to one of three things: the bulb, the car's wiring, or a part built into the headlight. The first two are quick fixes at a local shop. If the fault is inside the headlight, we repair it by mail anywhere in the U.S., with a free quote first.
From $400 per headlight — final price in your free quote
Start with the bulb and the fuse
On headlights with a replaceable halogen or HID bulb, a dead bulb is a common reason for one headlight not working. If the headlight went out on one side only, the bulb is the first suspect.
If both sides went dark at once, check the fuse and the relay first. Your owner's manual shows where they are.
Many newer cars have sealed LED headlights with no bulb to change. On those, the checks below matter more.
Low beam or high beam not working
Low beam not working while the high beam still lights, or the reverse? Then the headlight has lost only one of its functions.
On headlights with bulbs, the two beams often use separate bulbs or two filaments in one bulb, and many cars give each beam its own fuse or relay. Those are the first checks.
On LED and projector headlights, the beams come from modules or a moving shield inside the headlight. On these, a dead beam on one side usually points to the unit itself.
When the car's wiring is the problem
A corroded plug, a chafed wire or a failed switch can cut power before it reaches the headlight. The usual clue is that a known-good headlight still does not light when it is plugged in.
That kind of headlight electrical repair belongs to the car, not to the headlight, so it cannot be done by mail. A local mechanic or auto electrician is the right call.
Signs the fault is inside the headlight
When the bulb and the wiring check out, the failure is often in the electronics sealed inside the housing. Common signs:
- Flicker that continues with a new bulb or on a sealed LED unit
- Only part of the headlight works, such as the low beam but not the daytime light
- A dashboard warning about the lighting or the adaptive system
- Moisture or burn marks near a module or circuit board
- Beams that no longer turn or level on an adaptive headlight
If the headlight flickers rather than going dark, read Headlight Flickering: Common Causes and When to Repair the Headlight.
What we repair inside the headlight
These are the faults that mail-in repair is built for. Each one has its own service page:
- LED boards and drivers that flicker, dim or stay off: LED Headlight Repair
- Daytime running light strips and rings that fail or turn yellow: DRL Repair (Daytime Running Lights)
- Control modules and leveling or cornering electronics on adaptive headlights: Adaptive Headlight Repair (AFS)
Repair keeps your original headlight, so there is no new assembly to buy, fit and align. On premium and adaptive units, the original keeps the electronics your car already recognizes.
Price of a repair inside the headlight
From $400 per headlight — final price in your free quote
Repair starts only after you approve your written quote.
The final price depends on your vehicle and on which part has failed. Packing and shipping instructions come with your quote.
Questions about a dead or flickering headlight
Why is only one headlight out?
Each headlight has its own bulb or light source, so one side can fail on its own. If a new bulb does not fix it, or the headlight is a sealed LED unit, the fault is likely inside that headlight.
How do I know if the problem is in the headlight or the car?
If power reaches the headlight plug but the headlight stays dark, the fault is in the headlight. A mechanic can test this with a meter, and photos of any warning lights help us with your quote.
How does mail-in repair work?
You ask for a quote, remove the headlight and ship it, and we send it back repaired. How Mail-In Headlight Repair Works walks through each step.
Get the headlight working again
Tell us your vehicle and what the headlight is doing, add a few photos, and we reply with a written quote.